A Profound Pilgrimage: Reflections on the Kumano Kodo Journey

Hongu: The final two days of walking

Leaving Hongu, I stopped into the pilgrimage center to register my credentials, taking a step closer to becoming a "dual pilgrim." Some day I’ll tackle the Way of St. James in Spain and complete that journey. For now, getting my official completion stamp ✅ instilled a somber realization that my time in Japan was coming to an end. Just two more days of walking remained on the Kumano Kodo trail, and I cherished every moment, knowing it was an experience of a lifetime.

Dainishi-goe

The day's walk was short yet steep, accompanied by persistent mist and light rain. Along the path, I passed smaller shrines and carved rocks, but the highlight was the "View of the 3,600 Peaks of Kumano" ⛰️ lookout, where a brief respite from the rain offered a stunning view. Sai-no-Kawara Jizo stone carving left a profound impression, its mythological significance intertwined with nature and spirituality. “Jizo”, is someone who refrains from entering nirvana opting instead to save others, mainly children and travelers. “Sai-no-Kawara” is the mythical riverbank of purgatory of the “Sai-no-Kawa” river that divides our world from the afterlife. Similar to the “River Styx” in Greek mythology. It is believed that “young souls” are not accrued enough karmic merit to travel the Sai-no-Kawa” on their own and hence they pray for salvation by stacking rocks. However, Oni demons continually topple the towers creating eternal unrest for the young souls. Jizo rescues these lost souls and the statue I passed was erected to shepherd pilgrims that passed on their treks to Kumano. Heading out of the pass I stayed the evening in an old, repurposed school house, which seemed fitting for the narrative.

Ogumotori-goe

My final day walking in Japan led me to the most challenging section of the Nakahechi route, accompanied by relentless rain 🌧️ . Surprisingly, the adverse weather brought unexpected benefits - the absence of bugs and the moderate temperature allowed me to focus on the spiritual experience of walking through a Japanese forest during the rain. Earlier in my trip, I was told that there is no greater spiritual experience than walking the a Japanese forrest during the rain. While I believed this to be true, after this climb I now understood it as well. The greenery and moss that cover the rocks and trees truly come alive and the air feels heavy and pure. I felt a deep connection with nature and understood the true essence of walking a spiritual path 🙇‍♂️. Climbing "Dogiri-zaka" or “Body Breaking Slope” challenged my endurance as it is a daunting 2,625 feet over 3 miles. A plaque quoting Fujiwara Teika “this route is very rough and difficult; it is impossible to describe precisely how tough it is” resonated as I realized the true difficulty of this path.

Nachisan

Slow and steady progress, focusing on each step forward, and I arrived at Nachisan, where the Nachi-no-Otaki falls, Japan's tallest waterfall, stood magnificently. The weather cleared momentarily ⛅️ , offering a breathtaking view of the 436-foot cascade. The grandeur of the falls seemed to embody the essence of my pilgrimage - a powerful reminder of nature's might and the transformative journey I had undertaken. As I descended, a Giant Three Storied Pagoda (Sanju-no-To) framed the falls and symbolized the culmination of my pilgrimage, a tangible testament to the spiritual heights I had reached.

Conclusion

My Kumano Kodo pilgrimage has been an awe-inspiring and transformative journey, enriching my understanding of Japan's rich history and spirituality 🇯🇵 . To all the innkeepers, fellow pilgrims, and friends who joined me on this adventure, I extend heartfelt gratitude for the camaraderie and support that made this experience extraordinary. As my time in Japan comes to an end, I carry with me cherished memories of the lush forests, sacred shrines, and profound encounters that have touched my soul. Although my physical journey in Japan may conclude, the spiritual journey continues, inspiring me to explore new paths and embrace the wonders that lie ahead. Until our paths cross again, I wish you all remarkable adventures, and may our spirits find solace in the beauty of our interconnected world. As they say in Japan, さようなら (Sayonara).

Bonus Edit:

Before leaving Japan I had an oppertunity to stop into David Bull's Woodblock Printing shop. David streams on Twitch, and has a YouTube channel that kept me company during many late nights and early mornings at work. The atmosphere in the shop is so serene allowing you to truly appreciate the art of woodblock printing. It was a wonderful bookend to my Japan adventures since my Nakasendo walk started with a woodblock printing museum in Ena. The staff is not only knowledgeable but also passionate about sharing their craft, making the visit engaging and enjoyable. The range of designs and the quality of their prints are remarkable. Whether you're a seasoned artist or just looking for a unique souvenir, I recommend Moluhankan as a visit destination. Thank you David for taking the time to chat with me! A definite highlight of my trip to Tokyo.

• Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/SsXYRWX9dLr8YPr49?g_st=ic

• Twitch Channel: https://www.twitch.tv/japaneseprintmaking

Other items of Note

• Ukegawa -> Koguchi

• Distance Traveled: 8.76 miles (14.09 km)

• Elevation Gained: 2,257 feet

• Koguchi -> Nachisan

• Distance Traveled: 10.65 miles (17.13 km)

• Elevation Gained: 4,754 feet