Echoes of Time and Wisdom: A Pilgrimage of Self-Discovery on the Gudbrandsdalsleden

The journey of the soul often finds its beginning in the footfalls of history. The St. Hallvard Cathedral ⛪️ , the sacred threshold of the Gudbrandsdalsleden pilgrimage route, whispers tales of devotion and resilience. Walking through the ruins of Oslo's inaugural cathedral, built in the 1100s, one can almost hear the echo of ancient prayers and whispered hopes. A fire in the 17th century reduced its majesty to ash, yet the Oslo Pilgrim Center, nestled amidst these hallowed remains, imparts a subtle truth: that within the ruins of time, there lies an ever-burning flame of spiritual connection. Here, in the shadow of history, blessings and coffee merge, forging a bond between pilgrims and the spirits of the past, before the journey northward commences.

Amidst the urban pulse of Oslo, Østre Aker kirke stands as a testament to the continuity of faith. Emerging from the cityscape, this ancient church bridges the gap between centuries. As city walking segues into this tangible relic, Østre Aker Church, with roots reaching back to the 12th century, reminds us that within the ever-changing rhythm of the city, sacred echoes remain untouched, a timeless testament to human spirituality 🤲.

The pilgrimage's narrative unfolds, and at Furuset kirke, contrasts intertwine. Built in the utilitarian style of the 1980s, this modern kirke stands where its medieval predecessor once thrived. The "Black Death" 💀 of the mid-14th century erased the physical presence of the past, leaving behind only medieval keys as relics. Adjacent to the kirke, an edelløvskogen forest unfolds stories of survival, from bark bread to the sweetness of elm tree flowers. As I explored the textures of history, modern Norwegian candy bridged the gap between then and now. Surprising revelations about the abundance of black licorice spoke of the enduring appeal of familiar flavors.

Skjetten emerges as a gateway to the Southern Norwegian countryside. Passing through Skedsmo Kommune, this hub of adventure awaits on the cusp of Oslo's boundaries. As the concrete gives way to sprawling landscapes, I experienced the dance between nature 🌸 and humanity 🚶. The hills, marshes, and stones hold tales of resilience, while the convergence of outdoor activities and historical significance makes Skjetten a haven for modern pilgrims.

In Skedsmo kirke, history is etched in stone and spirit. Founded in 1022, this wooden church became a cornerstone of faith. The fire 🔥 that consumed it around 1180 underscores the transformative power of destruction and renewal. The weight of pilgrimage's distance echoes in the 608 km that lie ahead to Trondheim. Skedsmo kirke, one of the few remaining medieval churches, speaks to the endurance of ideals across time, connecting the footsteps of today's pilgrims with those who walked centuries ago.

The path leads me to Gamle Frogner kirke, where nature's embrace enfolds the pilgrim's journey. Through the lush landscapes of farming 🚜 countryside, echoes of tranquility linger. A gravestone adorned with a scallop shell pilgrim symbol evokes the universal thread of pilgrimage, resonating with the Camino De Santiago's essence. The road, unfurling through marshes and forests, unveils the harmonious coexistence of humans and nature, with the curious dance of truffle hunters and the grandeur of an oversized mushroom.

Ullensaker kirke, with its layers of history, echoes the passage of time. Four buildings have graced its site since 1430, bearing witness to the collective narrative of countless lives. Amid the chimes of wedding bells 🔔, I realized the temporal interplay of celebration and contemplation. Ullensaker kirke marks a crossroads of choice, a reminder that sometimes the journey close to home carries its own revelations.

The pilgrimage's path takes a few detours in Jessheim, a pause dictated by nature's whims that extended my expected walk by 8 miles. In the wake of record rainfalls in Norway's August of 2023, Lake Mjøsa's waters thwarted the intended course. As my foot 🦶 —both my actual foot and a metaphor for life's journey—neared its own "flat tire" moment, I recognized the dance between adaptation and rest. The detour speaks of the unpredictability of life's currents, a reminder that even the most meticulously planned paths require the flexibility of the present moment. As a result, I overnighted an extra day to recover needed to skip an upcoming mountain pass after Edisvoll

At Eidsvoll Kirke, the spirit of independence and resilience 💪 emerges from history's tapestry. The site where Norway's sovereignty was envisioned in 1814, even under Swedish rule, embodies the enduring power of belief. As detours led me around flooded pathways, the kirke stood as a beacon of tenacity. The camaraderie of fellow pilgrims, like a passing pilgrim from Germany, mirrors the universal quest for transcendence.

At Tagen Kirke, a home steeped in the wisdom of philosopher-poet Ingeborg Refling Hagen, the journey culminates in introspection. The home resonates with themes of self-discovery, and the echoes of Ingeborg's words—of connecting with one's inner wisdom—deepen the contemplative journey. Amidst the splendor of folk art 🖼️ adorning its walls, the past mingles with the present. I walked the corridors of this historic abode, where the very essence of Ingeborg's philosophies resonated with my own quest.

Ingeborg's musings on an inner "old-person" 👴 mirror the introspective conversations we have with our future selves. This parallel between ancient wisdom and modern mindfulness transcends time, linking back to the teachings of Aristotle, Plato, and Socrates—their wisdom echoing through the ages. Her belief in self-awareness as the genesis of wisdom aligns with the core essence of human growth—a journey marked by knowing ourselves deeply.

As I immersed myself in her words, one quote resonated profoundly: "It’s about knowing that no matter what happens, you never lose sight of yourself. You’re going to have good days, you’re going to have bad days, you are going to have better days. You’re going to have worse days. But you live to see tomorrow." In this simple truth, I found a guiding light 🔦 for navigating life's peaks and valleys, akin to the rhythmic pulse of a heartbeat, each beat symbolizing the journey's ebb and flow.

In a world that often exalts the highs and dreads the lows, the analogy of life as a sound wave or heartbeat 💓 brings a profound realization. The undulating motion of existence, with its moments of excess and dearth, forms the very essence of life's rhythm. Without these peaks and valleys, existence remains stagnant—a flat line, echoing the medical diagnosis of death. It's a powerful reminder that life's essence is found not only in jubilation but also in sorrow, not only in abundance but also in scarcity. It is in this symphony of experience that life's true beauty and profundity unfold.

As the pilgrimage unfurls, the echoes of history and philosophy converge at every step 👟. Eidsvoll Kirke, a cruciform stone church that weathered the winds of time, stands as an embodiment of human resilience. Ingeborg Refling Hagen's abode, the repository of her thoughts, bridges centuries to remind us that understanding ourselves is the cornerstone of wisdom. The pilgrimage, much like life itself, becomes a journey of understanding, acceptance, and transformation—a tapestry woven with the threads of history, spirituality, and the relentless pursuit of self-discovery.

As I continue onward ➡️, the pages of Ingeborg's "The Bridegroom" beckon, offering further insights into the human condition. The path to Hamar, like the journey of life, unfolds not just in steps but in revelations. Each stride adds to the symphony of experiences, the echoes of footsteps mingling with those who've walked before. The Gudbrandsdalsleden, steeped in history and philosophy, becomes not just a physical journey, but a pilgrimage of the soul—a testament to the undying quest for meaning and understanding in the footsteps of time.

Other Items of Note

• Oslo -> Skjetten

• Distance Traveled: 13.8 miles (22.21 km)

• Elevation Gained: 1,565 ft

• Skjetten -> Jessheim

• (note: if I walk this again, I would split this path into two days. It wreaked havoc on my feet)

• Distance Traveled: 22.4 miles (36.05 km)

• Elevation Gained: 1,811 ft

• Jessheim -> Eidsvoll

• Distance Traveled: 16.4 miles (26.4 km)

• Elevation Gained 661 ft

• What I’m Listening To

• Audiobook “The 12 Rules for Life” by Jordan B Peterson

• (https://a.co/d/8kWZ7Xy)

• What I’m Reading

• “The Bridegroom” by Ingeborg Refling Hagen

• (https://openlibrary.org/works/OL1299404W/Brudgommen?edition=key:/books/OL4177393M)

• Accompanying Orchestra Number by Eivind Groven "Brudgommen"

• (https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQKQlTOXPml5LcDZI6YW0ZaRuYtYJWbUS)

• NOTE: the orchestra was written on the piano in the living room of the home I stayed in

NOTE: Proofed and stitched using ChatGPT