Wandering Echoes: Pilgrimage of Words and Wanderlust

theweatheredsole
Sep 4, 2023
6 min read

Leaving Brumunddal:

As the sun briefly pierced the morning clouds, finally allowing the gift of a dry start to my day’s journey 🌞. The vagaries of weather, a constant companion on my pilgrimage, had momentarily relented. It was during leg of the walk, that I decided to embark on a literary odyssey of my own. With each step, I immersed myself in the mesmerizing narration of “The Hobbit” by J.R.R. Tolkien, brought to life by the masterful voice of Andy Serkis. This decision, to accompany my footsteps with the tales of Middle-earth, felt like a harmonious alignment of my physical and literary journeys, one feeding the other with tales of adventure, resilience, and the human spirit.

Veldre Kirke:

My sojourn led me to the Veldre Kirke, believed to have been erected during the medieval era, perhaps as early as the 12th century. This church bore witness to the ebb and flow of time. Its traditional Norwegian architectural style, a reflection of the aesthetics of its bygone era, was a testament to the enduring allure of wood 🪵 as a building material.

From Veldre Kirke, I embarked upon the “prestvegen”, an ancient road that once connected the parishes of Ringsaker and Veldre. Its name, a reminder of the Veldre priest’s historical journey to Ringsaker church, a route he traversed until 1876, although probably on horseback 🐴. Along this path, I encountered the venerable Tokstadfurua, a sentinel of nature that had stood for half a millennium, aptly known as the “pilgrim’s pine.” 🌲

Ringsaker Kirke:

Much like its ecclesiastical counterpart, Veldre Kirke, Ringsaker Kirke traced its origins to the 12th century, a testament to the enduring legacy of faith in this corner of Norway. It is believed to have been constructed by those who also contributed to the creation of the monumental Hamar Cathedral, with limestone 🪨 harvested from a nearby quarry.

Legend, as rich as the earth beneath the church’s foundation stones, wove tales of valor and conviction. Around the year 1030, five petty kings convened at Ringsaker to unite against the forceful efforts of Olav Haraldsson. Olav’s mission to Christianize the land met with resistance, and those who defied his vision faced harsh consequences ☠️. Tradition whispered that the church itself was a testament to Olav’s triumph over these defiant rulers, its very stones echoing the struggle for spiritual identity.

Lillehammer:

Lillehammer, a town cradled by history and adorned with architectural marvels, beckoned me to its heart. Lillehammer Kirke, a testament to the architectural wonders of the late 19th century, was a splendid example of Neo-Gothic design. Its pointed arches and intricate stonework soared heavenward. Though the church’s doors remained closed to me, I was granted a pilgrim’s stamp, a token of my journey’s passage. The town itself had etched its name onto the world stage when it hosted the 1994 Winter Olympics ⛷️. Lillehammer Kirke stood as a silent witness to those moments of glory, its environs having been transformed into arenas of competition and celebration.

The mention of the Olympics stirred memories of my own hometown, Salt Lake City, Utah, where the 2002 Winter Games had shown the strong sense of camaraderie and shared endeavor. The echo of pride swelled within me for the friends and family members who had volunteered their time and effort to make those Games a success 🙇 .

Maihaugen:

Maihaugen, in Lillehammer, is an expansive open-air museum and keeper of cultural heritage, stretched across the landscape, encompassing approximately 200 acres. It was a wonderful look into Norway’s history and architectural diversity, the third such museum to grace my journey. Each step within its confines carried me through time, a voyage through the annals of Norwegian heritage. The museum’s collection, spanning over an impressive 200 historic buildings from various corners of Norway, transported me through different epochs and architectural eras. Among these cherished structures was the Garmo Stave Church ⛪️ , a relic from the 13th century, standing resolute amidst the passage of time.

Maihaugen’s genesis, in 1887, was the vision of Anders Sandvig, a local dentist 🦷 whose passion for history manifested in this sprawling testament to Norway’s heritage. In an intriguing twist of fate, Anders’ own dental office now formed a piece of the exhibition, a glimpse into the history of Norway even before its settlement.

Trekking Onward Out of Lillehammer:

Beyond Lillehammer, my path led me into the very heart of Norway’s mountains and forests. Here, nature enveloped me, and I sensed the legends of trolls 🧌 that whispered through these woods, tales as old as time itself. The allure of Kjærlighetsfossen, the Waterfall of Love, beckoned me, and I ventured onto its path. Yet, in a moment of precarious balance, I slipped and tumbled into the river below. Fate played its hand, sparing my trusty backpack from the watery depths. Only my limbs bore the brunt of this mishap, leaving me with sore joints and a bruised ego—a stark reminder of the need for caution 😅.

For a night’s respite, I sought shelter at the award-winning boutique hotel, “Nermo.” Here, beneath its roof, I relished a hearty stew 🍲 that warmed not only my body but also my spirit. It was here that serendipity brought me face to face with a fellow pilgrim from Holland, her journey mirroring mine, the convergence of two souls on the pilgrim’s path.

Continuing my ascent into the mountains ⛰️ , I crossed paths with Kjørkbakken, a waymarked route bearing witness to a church long vanished, built by St. Olav himself, an echo from the annals of 1333. A stone marker proclaimed a mere 392 kilometers remaining on my journey to Nidaros (Trondheim). Amidst this wilderness, I stumbled upon an art installation—an enigmatic, weathered bronze space ant 🐜, engaged in the act of capturing a film, aptly named “M.A.U.R.” by Eric Pirolt. As I ascended the final pass of the day and contemplated this artwork, it posed a profound question: “Does our consciousness, with its unique capacity for imagination, cultivate a fertile ground for linguistic awareness that distinguishes us as the crowning glory of nature?” It was a question that resonated deeply as I continued my pilgrimage through Norway’s diverse landscapes.

The trail led me through vast farmlands, where cows and sheep became my companions, their gentle presence a reminder of the symbiotic relationship between humanity and the land. Along this pastoral route, a generous farmer extended the sweet gift of plums from his plum tree, their juicy succulence offering respite after the miles traversed.

Descending from the mountains, I found solace and a night’s rest at the historic Glomstad Guest House, a former farm converted into a motel and restaurant. Its original 1600s home, meticulously preserved, served as the heart of this establishment. During the 1994 Winter Olympics, it had welcomed many members of the press and athletes’ families, bearing witness to history’s unfolding.

The subsequent day, characterized by flat terrain and uneventful landscapes, passed swiftly. Ten miles, a once daunting distance, now felt remarkably short, as time flowed seamlessly. The absence of bustling roads allowed me to savor the scenery and bask in the warm embrace of the sun.

And then, I arrived at Ringebu Stavkirke, arguably one of the most visually stunning kirkes encountered thus far 🤩. This stave church, dating back to the 13th century with elements from around 1220, embodied the quintessential Norwegian stave church architectural style. Its intricate wood carvings and iconic red dragon-headed roof, known as “dragestil” or dragon style, were a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Within, the church’s interior revealed more wood carvings, including a magnificent altar screen and pulpit, offering a glimpse into the artistry of a bygone era.

Dale-Gudbrands Gard, my “halfway stay”, held a history tracing back to the medieval period. This farm and trading center in the Gudbrandsdalen valley bore witness to a tapestry of Norwegian folklore and history. It was intertwined with the legend of Gudbrand, a prominent figure in the Norwegian folk narrative “Peer Gynt” by Henrik Ibsen. “Peer Gynt,” a five-act dramatic poem penned by the renowned Henrik Ibsen and first published in 1867, narrated the adventurous journey of its titular character. Peer Gynt’s odyssey of self-discovery and transformation resonated deeply with me, a reflection 🤔 of the ever-evolving narrative of our own lives.

Setting out on the last walk of this entry, I started by visiting the grounds of Sør-Fron Kirke, an octagonal 🛑 stone church that had stood since 1792. The day’s trek from here took me through mountainous terrain, revealing awe-inspiring vistas that silenced the restless mind, reminding me of the profound connection between humanity and the natural world.

As I traversed these diverse landscapes, each step an echo of countless pilgrims before me, I couldn’t help but reflect on the nature of journeys, both physical and metaphysical. The path beneath our feet, the stories we carry, and the landscapes we traverse are all threads knitted into the tapestry of existence. Our shared human history, intertwined with the world’s natural beauty, beckons us to explore, question, and ultimately, find meaning in the profound journey of life.

So, as I venture forth, embracing the ever-changing vistas and the stories etched in every step, I am reminded that the true pilgrimage lies not just in the physical journey but in the profound exploration of self, the encounter with the world’s wonders, and the pursuit of knowledge and wisdom—a journey that resonates within and echoes through time itself.

Other Items of Note