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Exploring Oslo's Cultural Marvels and Preparing to Embark on the St. Olav's Way (Gudbrandsdalsleden)

  • theweatheredsole
  • Aug 17, 2023
  • 4 min read

Updated: Aug 19, 2023

Beneath the captivating skies of Oslo, Norway 🇳🇴, a cityscape adorned with vibrant street art unveils itself, where contemporary expressions intertwine harmoniously with historical charm. Oslo's very essence is a tale of transformation, as a devastating fire in 1624 prompted the city to rise anew, weaving the threads of its vibrant past into the tapestry of its modernity.


Among the architectural gems, I visited the Oslo Opera House which is a brilliant example of avant-garde design. Conceived by the visionary architects at Snøhetta, the opera house defies convention with its distinct sloping roof, an invitation for visitors to wander its gentle ascent and merge with the surrounding panorama. Clad in white Italian marble and glass, the opera house exudes an air of elegance 🎩, capturing the essence of Oslo's artistic spirit.


A short walk took me by the imposing Akershus Festning, a medieval stronghold that has shaped Norway's history for centuries. Standing sentinel 👀 on the waterfront of Oslo's harbor, this fortress has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, serving as a royal residence, a bastion of military power, and even a prison. Its strategic location embodies its role as a guardian of maritime trade routes, imparting a palpable sense of history.


Continuing along the serene shores of the Oslofjord, the Neo-Gothic masterpiece known as Oscarshall emerges, a regal summer palace that whispers tales of 19th-century opulence. Completed in 1852 for King Oscar I and Queen Josephine, its pointed arches and decorative tracery evoke a sense of romanticism, a symphony of architecture and nature against the backdrop of the Oslofjord's tranquility. I wasn’t able to enter this trip, but did wander 🚶‍♂️ the grounds for a while.


Venturing just a little further landed me at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, Norsk Folkemuseum, a sprawling open-air treasure trove. Spanning over 160 acres, this living museum preserves Norway's rich heritage through meticulously restored historic buildings from diverse regions and eras. A veritable journey through time, the museum's crown jewel, the Gol Stave Church ⛪️, is a testament to medieval religious architecture that continues to inspire awe and a preview of what I will encounter along the Gudbrandsdalsleden.


Beyond the city's boundaries lies Vigeland Park , a testament to the artistic talent of Gustav Vigeland. This expansive sculpture park, the world's largest created by a single artist, boasts over 200 sculptures crafted by Vigeland himself 🤯. Gustav Vigeland spent several decades working on the sculptures in the park, with the project spanning from the early 1900s to his death in 1943. These sculptures, many of them nude figures, speak to the depths of human vulnerability and authenticity, reminding visitors of the timeless bond that unites all of humanity.


At the heart of Vigeland Park stands the Monolith, a towering edifice hewn from a single block of stone, standing 14.12 meters (~46 feet) tall, symbolizing the intertwined journey of life and mortality. Encircled by the "Wheel of Life," 36 granite groups reflecting the stages from birth 👶 to death 💀.  Vigeland Park also features a bridge adorned with 58 bronze sculptures, each representing different stages of human life and relationships, At the end of the bridge there is a large fountain with sculptures of human figures surrounded by water, also depicting the cycle of life. The park is a poignant testament to the human experience, inviting introspection and contemplation.


Now, as I do final preparations before embarking on the Gudbrandsdalsleden, the rich cultural tapestry of Oslo provided a fitting prelude to a profound journey. This sacred path 🧭, stretching from Oslo to the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, the final resting place for St. Olav, the revered figure credited with Christianizing Norway. As the pilgrim's steps echo those taken by seekers for over 500 years, the aura of centuries past guides the way.


The Gudbrandsdalsleden is a gateway to Norway's spiritual heritage, unveiling tales of devotion, transformation, and resilience. The path has two routes out of Oslo that converge about 1/3rd of the way to Trondheim in Lillehammer. I will be embarking on the Eastern route, which is the traditional path pilgrims 🚶have walked and will traverse towns like Skedsmo, Frogner, Eidsvoll, and Hamar, each bearing echoes of history's whispers. A total distance of roughly 643 km (~400 mi.). The path fell into disuse during the 1500’s, and was reestablished, waymarked, and opened in the mid 1990’s. In 2010 the Gudbrandsdalsleden was included in the “European Cultural itinerary” in 2010. Joining other European pilgrimage paths such as the Camino de Santiago and Via Franigena (Canterbury to Rome).


As the journey unfolds, I’ll pass through and stay in traditional gård, or farmsteads. These contain farmhouses, barns, additional houses and functional buildings (usually ~20 in total) that all belong to the same family. Interesting note, I learned that it is illegal to sell farms in Norway and they are passed down with a family line. So I anticipate meeting some multi-generation keepers, similar to my experience in Japan. Gård typically have color-coded buildings, with their red 🔴 functional buildings (storage, animals, etc.) and white ⚪️ for humans.


As for wildlife I anticipate meeting among the meandering trails, are traditional farm animals (sheep🐑, horses🐴, cows🐄, etc.), Shetland ponies, 🦌, elk, and even the enigmatic musk oxen, which I have been informed should be given a VERY wide berth.


Oslo's cultural treasures stand as a testament to the city's captivating blend of history and innovation, a prelude to the profound journey of the Gudbrandsdalsleden. As I follow the sacred path, I’m thrilled to traverse a landscape laden with stories, embodying the essence of human emotion and vulnerability. The intertwining narratives of Oslo's heritage and the sacred pilgrimage create a tapestry that spans centuries, inviting all to step into the footsteps of history, finding solace, transformation, and a deep connection to the soul of Norway.



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©2023 by The Weathered Sole.

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