Embracing the Essence of Nakasendo: A Pilgrimage through Time and Nature

Continuing my journey through the Nakasendo Way, it continues to impress me with its historical significance and enchanting beauty. This timeless path has my heart brimmed with anticipation and curiosity, eager to immerse myself in the stories held within its next post towns and rugged landscapes ⛰️.

Magome - A Literary Sojourn

Leaving the welcoming embrace of the Sinchaya Inn, I entered Magome, a post town that resonates beyond borders. The bustling presence of tourists from around the world, all eager to walk the stretch between Magome and Tsumago, painted a vivid portrait of its international appeal. A significant factor in its popularity was the literary giant, Shimazaki Toson, whose name reverberated throughout Japan's literary history 📖 . Shimazaki is known for his works ability to pull upon profound emotions and societal struggles. I’ve made a note to read "Before Dawn," one of Toson's most renowned pieces, anticipating it will deepen my appreciation for the town's literary heritage.

Magome's allure was further heightened by the enchanting uphill climb towards Magome Pass 🥾 . As I ascended, I pondered the footprints of countless travelers who had traversed this route over the centuries, bound by a shared quest for discovery and connection.

Ichikokutochi Tateba Teahouse - A Serene Oasis

Nearing the halfway point between Magome and Tsumago, I stumbled upon the Ichikokutochi Tateba Teahouse, an oasis of history and warmth 🍵 . This over 300-year-old establishment exuded an aura of timelessness, retaining the architectural style from the mid-Edo period. The owner's hospitality, offering tea and small snacks, including delightful blueberries, provided a much-needed respite. Amid the crackling fire in the irori (firepit), I engaged in conversations with fellow travelers, tourists, and pilgrims, each on their personal journey along the Nakasendo way. Our shared experiences bridged cultures reminding me of the profound connections that form through the pursuit of exploration.

Tsumago - A Time Capsule of Pride

As I approached Tsumago, a town adorned with traditional charm, I found myself captivated by its captivating allure. My stay at the Maruya Inn, located next to an old Sake Brewers home 🍶 , immersed me further into Tsumago's historical embrace. With the afternoon sun casting a golden glow, I ventured into the Tsumago Post town, traversing its cobblestone streets that have witnessed generations come and go.

Though not as crowded as a bustling amusement park, Tsumago retained its identity as a cherished tourist destination. The town's commitment to preserving its historical aesthetic was evident, from the banishment of modern eyesores such as telephone poles, above-ground electric lines, and vending machines from its main street. The absence of vending machines, a ubiquitous sight in Japan 🇯🇵 , highlighted the town's dedication to preserving its authentic atmosphere.

Nagiso - Legends of the Past

Leaving Tsumago, I paused to reflect at the Kabuto Kannon shrine ⛩️, a symbol of Nagiso's legendary past. The tale of General Yoshinaka Kiso, whose presence once guarded the Kiso district, was believed to have sat on the very stones upon which I rested myself. This town's reputation as a hub for hydroelectric plants spoke to its seamless blend of history and modernity, an intertwining of past and present.

Parting ways with a dear friend, whose unexpectedly joined the walk to keep me company on the Magome -> Tsumago leg filled my journey with warmth and camaraderie 🤗. I cherished the memories shared and the connection formed amidst the unfolding beauty of the Nakasendo Way. The video attached to today’s blog is his 🙏.

Yogawa Road / Nenoue Pass - An Enchanting Challenge

With the Yogawa Road and Nenoue Pass stretching before me, a sense of anticipation and determination engulfed me. This section offered both the longest distance and the most accumulative elevation gain on the Nakasendo Way. Natural obstacles like landslides and flash floods made the traditional path impassable, guiding me deeper into the heart of the mountains. Amidst the towering trees 🌲 and the sound of rustling leaves, I was grateful to have added to my packing list a bear bell and bear spray.

As I ascended the pass, I was greeted with a glimpse of a wild Japanese macaque 🐒 wandering the path in front of me, a lively reminder of the diverse wildlife that thrived in these woods. Doing a bit of research, I discovered intriguing facts about these intelligent creatures, including their winter ritual of soaking in natural hot springs to keep warm and their resourceful use of tools for cracking nuts and shellfish. Thankfully, they were also annoyed by the bear bell and just shouted at me from the trees while I walked past.

Nojiri - Remnants of Resilience

Nojiri welcomed me at the end of a fulfilling day's walk, the longest stretch I will do during my time in Japan 😮‍💨. Although fire ravaged a significant part of this post town in 1791, there are only traces of its historical heritage left. As I prepared to board a train to my nights stay in Kiso Fukushima, I reflected on the profound connections formed through time, where the past's echoes lingered amidst a landscape shaped by both nature's majesty and the ingenuity of human endeavor.

Kiso Fukushima - The Legacy of Generations

Kiso Fukushima’s streets, like other towns along the Nakasendo Trail, were lined with many preserved Edo-era buildings, bearing witness to the passage of time and the endurance of tradition. This blend of history and modernity was a testament to the town’s ability to honor its past while embracing the present.For a winter sports enthusiast like me, Kiso Fukushima held a special allure as the home of the Kaida Kogen Mia Ski Resort 🏂 . The prospect of skiing and snowboarding amid the pristine mountain landscape awakened a thrill of adventure within me. I made a note to return during the snowy season to embrace the splendor of winter in this captivating region.

At the end of each day, I sought refuge in the historic Iwaya Inn, a treasure trove of memories that spanned over 300 years. Run by the Chigono family for 18 generations 😮, the inn epitomized the enduring spirit of the Nakasendo Way, where the threads of hospitality and tradition were woven into an intricate tapestry of cultural heritage.

As I laid down to rest 😴 , I couldn’t help but marvel at the layers of history, culture, and nature that unfolded before me on this pilgrimage. The Nakasendo Way, a pathway of both physical and spiritual discovery, reminded me of the cyclical nature of life and the interconnectedness of all living beings.

In the footsteps of countless travelers who had journeyed before me, I realized that this ancient trail was more than just a physical connection between post towns; it was a bridge between generations, cultures, and the eternal rhythms of the natural world. Every encounter, whether with literary legacies, local teahouse owners, or wild macaques, left an indelible mark on my soul, urging me to see the world through a lens of wonder and appreciation😊.

As I traveled further along the Nakasendo Way, I couldn’t help but feel a profound sense of gratitude for this journey of self-discovery. Each step carried me forward in time while simultaneously connecting me to the essence of humanity’s shared experiences. The Nakasendo Way beckoned all who sought not just a physical adventure but a philosophical exploration of the soul, weaving a story of unity, resilience, and reverence for the natural 🌎 .

As I continue my odyssey, I realize that the Nakasendo Way is more than just a path through the Japanese countryside; it is a passage through the corridors of time, revealing the ever-changing landscapes of life and leaving me humbled by the vastness of existence.

~E

Other Items of Note:

• Shinchaya -> Magome -> Tsumago

• Distance Traveled: 6.8 miles (10.94 km)

• Elevation Gained: 1,078 feet

• Tsumago -> Nagiso -> Nojiri

• Distance Traveled: 13.44 miles (21.63 km)

• Elevation Gained: 2,438 feet

• Music I’m Walking To

• Above & Beyond in Guatape, Colombia for Cercle (https://youtu.be/MEzU1HvBo6Y)

NOTE: Proofed and stitched using ChatGPT