Wandering Through Japan’s Timeless Beauty: The Last Days on the Nakasendo

Embracing the Detour: Karasawanotaki Waterfall

As I embarked on my journey along the Nakasendo Way, I stumbled upon a hidden gem, the Karasawanotaki Waterfall, which is roughly 100 meters high. This stunning deviation from the traditional Nakasendo path led me to traverse the historic Hida Highway, once a vital salt and medicinal route for travelers heading towards Mt. Ontake. Despite taking a wrong turn that added a mile or so to my initial plans 🤦‍♂️, the unexpected detour brought me to a breathtaking overlook that I would have otherwise missed. This experience made me ponder the significance of detours in life—how they may lead us to serendipitous moments and unexpected wonders that enrich our journey.

Savoring Serendipity: Kaida Café "Poppoya"

Amidst the picturesque landscapes of the Nakasendo Way, I stumbled upon Kaida Café "Poppoya," a charming eatery owned by the heartwarming Ando couple. As I descended down the mountain, Ms. Ando's warm welcome embraced me like a long-lost friend 🤗. The delightful surprise awaited as I was treated to the mesmerizing tunes of Mr. Ando's resguardo-jamisen, a three-stringed instrument, and the harmonica melodies played by his talented wife, Ms. Ando. It struck me that life's most unforgettable moments often emerge from the unplanned encounters, where strangers become friends, and shared music becomes a language of connection. This beautiful interlude in the midst of my trek reinforced the essence of serendipity, teaching me to embrace the unexpected with an open heart and to cherish the magic of life's impromptu symphonies. Dispite wanting to linger longer, it started to rain and Ms. Ando stressed that I needed to head out to catch the last bus out of town.

Yamakanoyo Roykan Inn: Echoes of Time

Yamakanoyo Roykan Inn cherished heritage extends through seven generations spanning over 120 years. As I stepped into the ryokan, I was greeted by the sight of nature's splendor through my window—a breathtaking view that captured the essence of the Japanese Alps ⛰️. The legacy of Yamakanoyo Roykan Inn evoked a sense of awe at the interconnectedness of past and present, where the values of hospitality and tradition are woven together. This encounter left me reflecting on the significance of preserving cultural heritage and passing down the torch of tradition to future generations.

Yabuhara: A Tranquil Retreat

The next morning, I took a short train ride 🚊 back to the Nakasendo and the town of Yabuhara. The starting point of my walk, Yabuhara unveiled its charm nestled in the serene embrace of the Japanese Alps. As I walked through the town, its well-preserved stone bridges dating back to the Edo period served as silent witnesses to centuries of history and trade. This remote haven amidst lush green mountains offered me a profound sense of serenity and connection with nature, a theme I’ve continually encountered along this trek, reminding me of the wisdom found in simplicity. Yabuhara's tranquil landscape beckoned me to leave behind the complexities of the modern world and embrace the harmonious rhythm of life with nature.

Narai Post Town: A Historic Border Hub

Ascending up and over Torii-Together Pass into Narai, a town known as the "halfway" point between Tokyo and Kyoto, captivated me with its rich historical significance. This strategic border post witnessed Japan's Warring States period, where powerful feudal clans, the Takeda and the Tokugawa, once clashed for supremacy. As I dined at "Tokkuriya," relishing their delightful rice treats, I imagined the countless travelers who once sought refuge here before crossing the challenging Torii Pass. The Nakasendo typically is traveled the opposite direction in which I’m walking and Narai served as a common overnight post town before tackling the pass. The spirit of camaraderie that once prevailed among travelers resonated with the understanding that life's journey is often made more meaningful by the companionship of fellow travelers. Although traveling alone this trip, the few moments that I’ve shared with friends in Japan, as well as those staying connected virtual have made am immense difference in sustaining a positive moral 👍 .

Karuizawa: A Haven of Tranquility

I left Nari by train to prep for my final day that starts in Karuizawa. Karuizawa's allure as a retreat for foreign diplomats and missionaries during the late 19th and early 20th centuries made it a place of respite and inspiration. This idyllic town embraced a peaceful atmosphere, attracting prominent figures like John Lennon and Yoko Ono, who spent their honeymoon amidst its natural beauty. As I strolled along the charming Karuizawa Ginza 🛍️, the contrasting scenery of artisan shops and boutiques brought a sense of nostalgia for the countryside that had been my home for the past few days. It reminded me that life's journey is about embracing diversity, cherishing each unique experience, and finding beauty in the balance between tranquility and vibrancy.

Tsuruya Inn: A Culinary Adventure with Fugu

I overnighted at the Tsuruya Inn, which offered me a fascinating culinary adventure with fugu, the famous blowfish 🐡 known for its deadly poison, tetrodotoxin. Intimidated but curious, I indulged in the delicacy, knowing that chefs undergo rigorous training to safely prepare this potentially lethal fish. Fugu symbolized the daring and adventurous spirit that accompanies life's unique experiences. The act of eating fugu became a metaphor for embracing calculated risks and relishing life's extraordinary moments.

Embracing the Heights: Usui Pass & Observation Platform

The next morning I tackled another fear of mine as I crossed over the Usui pass. The top of Usui pass first marked the pinnacle of my 6-day trek along the Nakasendo Way. The panoramic view encompassed Mr. Haruno, Akagi, and Myogi mountains, along with the Nikko Range and the vast Kanto plain. In the distance, I caught a glimpse of the majestic Mt. Asama Volcano, a reminder of nature's awe-inspiring grandeur 🤩. The journey downward to Yokoawa led me through "leech" territory, an encounter that stirred a mix of emotions. Of all the animals I could come across adventuring (ie. bears, snakes, mountain lions, scorpions, spiders, tics, sharks, squirrels, other humans, etc.), it turns out leeches are are the ones that make me the most queazy. It taught me that life's most exhilarating moments are often accompanied by a touch of discomfort and fear, yet it is through facing these challenges that we discover the strength within us 💪.

Yokokawa: A Fitting End

As I concluded my pilgrimage in Yokokawa 🛑, a town close to the historic Nakasendo route, I marveled at the synchronicity of life's unfolding. Each step of the journey had brought me closer to understanding the profound interconnectedness between places, people, and experiences. Yokokawa served as a poignant reminder that even though the path we take may diverge and intertwine, our journey, ultimately, shapes us into who we are, and every destination becomes a significant part of our story.

Special Shout-Out: A Gratitude Filled Tribute 🙇‍♂️

I extend my heartfelt gratitude to Walk Japan and their exceptional team for providing a self-guided tour that surpassed all expectations. Every route, food recommendation, place of stay, and the encounters with incredible people enriched my journey beyond measure. I highly recommend Walk Japan for anyone seeking an immersive walking tour of Japan. Their commitment to exposing travelers to the depths of the Japanese culture, history, and natural beauty is commendable. I suspect that participating in a guided version of their tours would offer an even more profound and enlightening experience. My heart brims with appreciation for every moment that unfolded on this memorable adventure, one that has left an indelible mark on my soul 💜. As I bid farewell to the Nakasendo Way, I take with me the lessons of serendipity, embracing the detours, and finding the extraordinary within the ordinary. The path may have led me across bridges and mountains, but the most cherished discovery was the beauty of the journey itself. I’ll see y’all on the Kumano Kodo next 🔜.

• Other items of Note

• Karasawanotski Waterfall -> Kaida Plateau | 🚌 | Suekawa -> Nishino

• Distance Traveled: 9.63 miles (15.5 km)

• Elevation Gained: 2,327 feet

• Yabuhara -> Torii Pass -> Narai

• Distance Traveled: 4.82 miles (7.76 km)

• Elevation Gained: 1,083 feet

• Karuizawa -> Usui Pass -> Yokokawa Station

• Distance Traveled: 10.70 miles (17.36 km)

• Elevation Gained: 1,144 feet

NOTE: Proof and stitched with ChatGPT