The Nakasendo Journey: Embracing the Art of Mindful Travel
- theweatheredsole
- Jul 24, 2023
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 30, 2023
On the storied path of the Nakasendo, where history and culture intertwine, I embarked on a soul-enriching adventure 🚶♂️. This majestic highway, built to connect the old emperor's capital, Kyoto, with the shogun's capital, Edo (now Tokyo), serves as a metaphor for the journeys we all undertake in life.
Though I'm not walking the entire Nakasendo, my quest started in Ena, and from there, I meandered eastward, captivated by the spirit of exploration. But before taking my first steps, I was unexpectedly captivated by the Sumo July 2023 final , where I witnessed the dance of posturing and strategy between the wrestlers, that is surprisingly similar to the mental games that pitcher & batters play in the game of baseball ⚾️ . Much like life's own duals, it is in these moments of anticipation that the true excitement lies.
Day one led me through enchanting landscapes, from Ena to Nakatsugawa, ending atop the peaceful Shinchaya Inn. The miles covered, the elevation gained, and the time invested were more than mere physical metrics. They mirrored the internal transformation and insights that come with mindful travel.
Nestled in the charming town of Ena, the previous night I had stayed at the Ichikawa Inn. With a lineage spanning an impressive 15th and 16th generation of Ryokan keepers, this historic inn weaves a captivating tapestry of Japanese culture and heritage. The Ichikawa Inn's longevity is a testament to the enduring spirit of preserving customs and warmly welcoming travelers from all corners of the world. As guests step over its threshold, they are enveloped in an atmosphere that transports them to a bygone era, where meticulous attention to detail and impeccable service were revered virtues. The culinary delights served within its walls mirror the richness of the region's culinary traditions, offering an unforgettable feast for the senses 🍱 . For travelers seeking an authentic and immersive experience, the Ichikawa Inn is a haven that embodies the essence of Japan's legendary hospitality and leaves an indelible mark on the hearts of its fortunate guests.
- NOTE: This was the first time I had worn a Yutaka, which requires tying an Obi (belt sash) around your waist.. You would think having worn a vest and tie for 20 years I wouldn’t have any issues knotting it appropriately.. but alas, 90 minutes and I got nothing better than a square knot 😅
Before leaving Ena, I visited The Hiroshige Museum of Art, offering lessons through the history of Japanese Woodblock Printing (ukiyo-e) 🪵. Just like the layered prints, our lives are composed of intricate and interconnected experiences, forming a masterpiece of self-discovery. The delicate craftsmanship and storytelling woven into these prints served as a reminder that every moment in life can be elevated to an artistic expression. There is an amazing Twitch broadcaster, David Bull, that creates these in Tokyo (https://twitch.tv/japaneseprintmaking) I used to love watching his streams when working late. I highly recommend the channel.
I also dropped by The Nakasendo Hishiya Museum on my way out of town. Nestled along the historic Nakasendo highway in Ena, Japan, The Nakasendo Hishiya Museum serves as a captivating window 🪟 into the region's vibrant past. This unique museum was once a bustling "general store," catering to the needs of travelers and locals alike during the Edo period (1603-1868). Today, it stands as a cherished repository of cultural artifacts, offering visitors a glimpse into the everyday lives of people who once traversed this ancient trade route. Stepping through its doors, one can immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of historical relics, ranging from essential provisions to traditional shoes and fabrics. The Nakasendo Hishiya Museum serves as a poignant reminder of the human stories that have unfolded along this storied path, celebrating the resilience and ingenuity of those who have contributed to the region's enduring legacy.
From Ena, I made my way to Nakatsugawa, one of the larger post towns from the Edo period, invited me to indulge in Yamashina Eel Cuisine. A culinary adventure expanded my horizons 😋 , proving that openness to new experiences can lead to delightful surprises and memorable encounters. The delicate flavors of the eel offered a connection to the land and its people, providing a glimpse into the rich culinary traditions that have thrived along this ancient highway.
Pushing onward, I was able to meet a friend on my way to Ochiai. Starting to trek into the mountains we reached the Ioji Temple of the Medicine Buddha ⛩️ and its cobblestone pathways. The climb, symbolizing life's challenges, offered much-needed shade in the forest, representing the serenity that accompanies resilience. The meditative atmosphere of the temple encouraged introspection, reminding me of the healing power of nature and the significance of finding sanctuary within oneself.
At the end of today’s climb we settled into the solitary embrace of the Shinchaya Inn, the Hara family's kindness exemplified the generosity I had encountered in the Japanese people. As we shared the family’s apricot-plum wine (umeshu), sweet grasshoppers, and horse meat 🐴 , I felt nourished not just physically but emotionally by the power of human connections. The inn's solitary building design fosters a sense of intimacy and peace, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the serene ambiance of the mountains. With no distractions from the outside world, visitors have the chance to reflect, rejuvenate, and find solace in the simplicity of the natural surroundings.
Along this path, I have realized that the Nakasendo is more than a physical route 🧭. It is an opportunity for introspection and contemplation, where every step invites us to embrace the art of mindful travel. Each encounter, each new taste, each experience uncovers layers of our own existence, forming a rich tapestry of memories and reflections. Reminding us that our quest for meaning and growth is not just about reaching the destination but cherishing every moment of the path we tread. It encourages us to appreciate the beauty of the ordinary, find art in the smallest of details, and embrace the art of mindful travel that enriches our souls along the way.
~E
Other items of note:
Ena -> Nakatsugawa -> Shinchaya
Distance Traveled: 11.34 miles (18.24 km)
Elevation Gained: 1,579 feet
Book I’m listening to: The 4 Seasons Solution, by Dallas Hartwig
While Dallas is known for his food studies, and this does revolve around healthy eating habits, this book focuses on the annual cyclical rhythm of how your diet and moods shift through a year. I generally agreed and have experienced many of the rhythmic waxing and waning that life presents and thought his take on it was interesting and easy to grasp
Music I’m walking with:
Lane-8 - Sunrise Set - Grand Lake CO (https://youtu.be/n_LcVqqHSY8)
Random Chill Mix from Spotify https://open.spotify.com/playlist/37i9dQZF1EVHGWrwldPRtj?si=C-
What I’m reading: Yumi and the Nightmare Painter, by Brandon Sanderson
I loved Sanserson’s Way of Kings, believing that there are a lot of high-quality leadership philosophies that can be gleamed through his writing. This is one of his latest publications from when he went on a writing tear through the pandemic. It came recommended to me from a friend and colleague. I’ve just cracked it open for this adventure.
NOTE: Proofed and stitched using ChatGPT